Description
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, short for HPR, is a derivative of retinoic acid, which is synthesized from retinoic acid and small molecule pinacol, also known as retinoic acid ester.
It does not need to be converted into retinoic acid in the body but directly binds to related receptors to play its role, which not only reduces the irritation to the skin but also improves its work efficiency.
Therefore, one of the significant advantages Hydroxypinacolone retinoate has over retinol and other vitamin A derivatives used in active ingredient cosmeceuticals today is that it does not require a conversion to retinoic acid.
Once applied to the skin it can bind directly to the receptors allowing a cascade of events to take place that produce antiaging effects, reduce pigmentation marks and blemishes,
improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce sebum production, minimization pores and improve skin texture.
Furthermore, increased hydration and an improvement in the skin's glow can also be expected.
The second significant advantage Hydroxypinacolone retinoate has over other forms of Vitamin A is ingredient stability.
Thermal stress tests have shown that Hydroxypinacolone retinoate will remain stable and effective in the skin for up to 15 hours.
Properties:
◆Anti-aging
Retinol can stimulate the fibroblast to synthesize collagen and increase skin elasticity.
Retinol can inhibit collagenous fiber breakage by inhibiting matrix metalloproteinase and promoting the synthesis of metalloproteinase-type inhibitors.
◆Oil control and acne-removal
It can inhibit the expression of TLR, prevent the production of interleukin and interferon,
inhibit the infiltration of CD4+ and CD8+ lymphocytes and macrophages, eliminate the blockage of sebacid glands, and reduce the number of propionibacterium acnes
◆Skin Brightening
Retinol can inhibit melanin synthesis by inhibiting the expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related proteins in B16 mouse melanoma cells.
◆Skin Firming
The retinol-CrBP compound is catalyzed by retinol dehydrogenase to being converted to retinal, which is rapidly oxidized to retinoic acid in turn.
Retinoic acid is the actual form of retinoid compounds acting in vivo. It binds to relevant receptors in vivo to regulate keratinocyte growth and differentiate gene expression.
| Inspection items |
Technical index |
| Appearance |
Yellow crystalline powder |
Identification |
Testing the retention time of the main peak of the solution should be consistent with the contrast solution in the chromatogram recorded under the purity measurement item |
| Melting Point |
86.0~89.0℃ |
| LOD |
NMT 0.50% |
| ROI |
NMT 0.20% |
| Clarity |
Clear |
| Purity (HPLC) |
NLT 99.0% |
Instruction of Formulation Application
1. Solubility： Oil-soluble, and insoluble in water
2. pH：4.00-8.00
3. Dosage：0.01-0.3%
4. Operating temperature：Below 85℃
5. Aqueous phase：Insoluble
6. Oil phase: Add directly and heat to dissolve
7. Thickening system：No special instructions
8. Application suggestion：
①Suitable foroil-base system, such as pure oil, water in oil, water in silicone oil, and silicone oil in water system, etc.
Do not recommend for pure water system and dilute emulsion (viscosity less than 1500).
②The formula should be added enough humectant and soothing and anti-sensitive agent.
③ It should be added some ingredients that are beneficial to stabilize the component of Vitamin A(e.g. antioxidants, chelating agents),
a air-tight and light-proof container would be better.
9. Processing suggestion：It is not recommended to heat it for a long time
10. Storage recommendation：Store in a cool and dry place. Shelf life is three years.
11. Incompatibility：Not found yet
