Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is the newest member of the superhero vitamin A ingredient family. Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is an ester of retinoic acid and works similar to tretinoin (or prescription strength Retin–A) but with little to no skin irritation.
One of the significant advantages hydroxypinacolone retinoate has over retinol and other vitamin A derivatives used in active ingredient cosmeceuticals today is that it does not require a conversion to retinoic acid. Once applied to the skin it can bind directly to the receptors allowing a cascade of events to take place which produce the antiaging effects, reduction in pigmentation marks and blemishes, improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reducing sebum production, minimising pores and improving skin texture. Furthermore, increased hydration and an improvement in the glow of the skin can also be expected.
The second significant advantage hydroxypinacolone retinoate has over other forms of Vitamin A is ingredient stability. Thermal stress tests have shown that hydroxypinacolone retinoate will remain stable and effective in the skin for up to 15 hours.
Properties:
1. Be able to promote the normal differentiation of skin keratinocytes.
2. Prevent the breakdown of dermal collagen and avoid wrinkles.
3. Promote collagen synthesis in the dermis and improve wrinkles.
4. Accelerate keratinocyte metabolism and restrain the generation of melanin.
5. It is not recommended for pregnant women or those preparing for pregnancy.
Usage:
1. Soluble in oil, insoluble in water.
2. Mainly used in lotion, cream, essence, etc.
Instruction of formulation
1. Solubility： Oil-soluble, and insoluble in water
2. pH： 4.00-8.00
3. Dosage： 0.01-0.3%
4. Operating temperature：Below 85℃
5. Aqueous phase：Insoluble
6. Oil phase: Add directly and heat to dissolve
7. Thickening system：No special instructions
8. Application suggestion：
① Suitable for oil-base system, such as pure oil, water in oil, water in silicone oil, and silicone oil in water system, etc. Do not recommend for pure water system and dilute emulsion (viscosity less than 1500).
② The formula should be added enough humectant and soothing and anti-sensitive agent.
③ It should be add some ingredients that are beneficial to stabilize the component of Vitamin A(e.g. antioxidants, chelating agents), a air-tight and light-proof container would be better.
9. Processing suggestion：It is not recommend to heat it for a long time
10. Storage recommendation：Store in a cool and dry place. Shelf life is three years.
11. Incompatibility：Not found yet
